- campinglemonteil
- Aug 25
- 5 min read
Updated: Oct 6
The idea had been simmering for months: a proper cycling adventure, just the two of us, exploring a piece of France we’d never seen. That’s how we found ourselves, bikes cleaned and serviced, and panniers packed, at the starting line in Montluçon. We were ready to tackle La Vagabonde, a 500km, 10-stage cycle route from Montluçon south towards Toulouse. We packed relatively light, booking accommodation in advance for each night. The first night's stop was an intriguing place I’d bookmarked weeks ago.
Étape 1: Montluçon - Évaux-les-Bains (44 km)

Setting off from Montluçon felt like a genuine departure into the heart of France. The route quickly shed the town's edges, guiding us onto a lovely greenway that eased us into the rhythm of the ride. The landscape of the Combraille region began to unfold around us—a gentle tapestry of rolling hills, hedgerow-lined fields, and sleepy hamlets that seemed untouched by time.
The pedalling was steady, with a few climbs that got the heart pumping but were always rewarded with sweeping views. We found our pace and settled into a rhythm largely dictated by the environment. The further we cycled away from the city, the quieter the roads became. We chatted, pointed out ridiculously charming stone houses, and mostly just soaked in the quiet joy of being on the open road.
As we neared Évaux-les-Bains, our legs began to feel the day’s effort. The promise of our pre-booked glampsite, Camping le Monteil, was a powerful motivator for that final push. Finding the campsite was easy. As we rolled down the quiet lane, a sense of calm immediately washed over us. This wasn’t a sprawling, anonymous campsite; it was an intimate, peaceful haven.
We were met by the owner, who instantly understood the needs of weary cyclists. He pointed us towards our bell tent and, crucially, the secure locker room where we could safely store our bikes and plug in the e-bike to charge.

I’ll be honest, the word "camping" had me picturing wrestling with tent poles and a long walk to a shared shower block. Camping le Monteil shattered that illusion. Our bell tent was enormous, and standing proudly in front of us was a king-size bed. A real bed. After a day in the saddle, it looked like the height of luxury. Even better, we had our own private bathroom and shower just steps away in the beautifully converted barn. No queues, no hassle—just a hot shower to wash away the road's dust.

That evening, we sat outside our tent on our private deck, a glass of local wine in hand, grilling sausages on the barbecue provided. We felt utterly secluded, surrounded by the gentle sounds of the countryside as the sky exploded into a blanket of stars. It was the perfect paradox: the wild, back-to-nature feeling of sleeping under canvas, but with all the profound comfort you could ever need. It was, without a doubt, the perfect end to Stage 1.
Étape 2: Évaux-les-Bains - Aubusson (55 km)
Waking up after a deep, restorative sleep in that incredible bed was a game-changer. We felt refreshed, recharged, and genuinely excited for the day ahead. After a leisurely breakfast (the eggs provided by the owner’s hens were like none I had eaten before), we packed up, collected our bikes, and hit the road for Aubusson.
The second stage felt different—a deeper dive into La Creuse. The scenery became more dramatic, the hills a little more insistent, but our well-rested legs were more than up for the challenge. The route was just as beautiful, winding through forests and opening up to stunning vistas. Knowing we had started the day so comfortably made the ride feel less like a challenge and more like pure pleasure.

Rolling into Aubusson, the famous tapestry town, felt like a true accomplishment. But as we found a café to celebrate, our conversation kept drifting back to the night before. It wasn't just a place to sleep; Camping le Monteil had been an integral, unforgettable part of the experience. For any cyclist tackling La Vagabonde, I can't recommend it enough. It’s the perfect, peaceful, and wonderfully comfortable sanctuary that turns the end of your first day into a highlight of the entire trip.
Embracing the Journey
As we continued our adventure, we discovered that each stage of La Vagabonde offered new surprises. The beauty of the French countryside unfolded before us like a storybook. Each twist and turn in the road revealed hidden gems—charming villages, quaint cafés, and breathtaking landscapes.
Cycling through La Creuse felt like pedalling through a painting. The vibrant greens of the fields contrasted beautifully with the azure sky. I could almost taste the freshness of the air, filled with the scent of wildflowers.
The Joy of Glamping
Glamping added a unique twist to our cycling journey. It combined the thrill of camping with the comforts of home. After long days on the bike, returning to our luxurious tent was a delight. The experience was like a warm hug after a chilly day.
We enjoyed the simplicity of outdoor living while indulging in little luxuries. The private bathroom was a game-changer. It allowed us to refresh ourselves without the usual camping hassles.
Connecting with Nature
Cycling through the serene landscapes allowed us to connect with nature in a profound way. The gentle sounds of rustling leaves and chirping birds accompanied our journey. We often stopped to appreciate the beauty around us.
Whether it was a picturesque sunset or a tranquil stream, each moment was a reminder of the magic of the outdoors. We felt a sense of freedom as we pedalled along, leaving our worries behind.
A Culinary Adventure
One of the highlights of our trip was the food. Each town we visited offered local delicacies that tantalised our taste buds. From fresh baguettes to artisanal cheeses, every meal was a celebration of French cuisine.
We made it a point to try something new at each stop. The flavours were rich and diverse, reflecting the region's culture. Dining al fresco, surrounded by nature, made every meal feel like a special occasion.
The Final Stages
As we progressed through the stages of La Vagabonde, we found ourselves growing stronger and more confident. Each day brought new challenges, but we embraced them with enthusiasm. The camaraderie between us deepened as we shared laughter and stories along the way.
Reaching the final stages of our journey filled us with a bittersweet feeling. We were excited to complete the route but sad to see our adventure come to an end.
Reflecting on the Experience
Looking back, this cycling adventure was more than just a physical journey. It was a chance to reconnect with each other and with nature. The memories we created will last a lifetime.
Camping le Monteil was not just a place to rest; it became a cherished part of our story. The warmth of the owner and the comfort of our glamping experience made it truly special.
As we pedalled towards our final destination, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the journey. The beauty of La Creuse, the joy of cycling, and the luxury of glamping combined to create an unforgettable experience.
If you’re considering a cycling adventure, I wholeheartedly encourage you to explore La Vagabonde. It’s a journey that promises to refresh your spirit and awaken your love for the great outdoors.
---wix---










